Lost in Translation?

A Dish That Caught My Eye, In the Window of a Denman St. Korean Restaurant

Adventures in Ice Cream Making - Lycheelicious!

It's ice cream experimenting season again! Just tried some of my first batch of lychee ice cream, and it's good! I made it in my hand-crank Donvier machine that I liberated from the basement of my parents' house where the poor appliance was banished to shortly after I gave it to them years ago as a gift. Be free, little ice cream maker! In the tradition of Ben and Jerry, I need a more fanciful name than "Lychee Ice Cream." So far, I've got "Lycheelicious!"

Being an ice cream flavour developer is another one of those jobs I fantasize about, like being a restaurant reviewer. Don't get me wrong - I'm loving my actual job right now, and feel like I'm living a bit of a fantasy job myself, and know that a lot of people would envy me. But tasting ice cream all day? How cool is that? This one Daily Planet television story that I saw years ago about a Ben and Jerry Developer/Taster really had an impact on me. So, I finally got around to trying to make a lychee ice cream, after having been inspired months ago by having some at Yuji's Japanese Tapas. I didn't want a sorbet, though I'm sure an icy lychee sorbet would be wonderfully refreshing. I wanted to make a thick, rich, heavy cream concoction, and I was inspired by this Martin Yan recipe that I found on the internet. I modified the recipe to my preferences, and thought I would share this with you. First of all, I wasn't after an ice cream with chunks of lychee in it. Also, based on my success with rum raisin last year, where I learned that straining the custardy milky mixture with a fine mesh sieve is important because it removes the little solid eggy bits (probably from the chalazae, the proteinaceous strands that hold the yolk in place in an egg), I decided to strain the whole mixture. This wound up being a very useful step, as I noticed a lot of brownish fibers from the lychee puree were also strained out. Finally, I added a splash of Soho Lychee Liqueur because I had it around, and I figured it would add flavour, as well as adding some alcohol content which helps ice cream from freezing too hard. Also, I've started the experimenting with canned lychees, to see how it would turn out, but they're actually in season now, so the next step is to use fresh ones. I'm not sure that this is entirely necessary though, because I did get fairly good flavour with the canned, and it's almost a shame to mush up a pile of beautiful fresh lychees, instead of eating them whole. It would likely result in a brighter flavoured ice cream though. Here's the recipe the way I did it today:


Lycheelicious! Ice Cream

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
¾ cup sugar
2 egg yolks, beaten
1½ cups canned seedless lychees, drained & pureed in a blender (one 530 ml can)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
Splash of Lychee Liqueur to taste (optional)

1. Combine the cream, milk and sugar in a saucepan or double boiler; heat until warm and the sugar is completely dissolved. Add 1 cup of the cream mixture to the yolks while whisking lightly. Gradually pour the egg mixture back into the cream mixture while continuing to whisk lightly.

2. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the back of your spoon is thinly coated, about 8 minutes. Do not allow to boil or the ice cream custard mixture will curdle.

3. Puree the lychees well in a blender, add the lemon juice.

4. Combine the lychee mixture to the custard mixture. Add a splash of Soho Lychee Liqueur to taste. I probably added two tablespoons.

5. Strain the mixture with a fine mesh sieve into a bowl to chill in the fridge. You can chill overnight, or if you're impatient like me, create a ice bath in a larger bowl for the small bowl to sit in, and place the whole thing in the fridge until cool, or for as long as you can wait.

4. Freeze in an electric or manual ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. My manual Donvier suggests 20 minutes of turning. Then transfer to an airtight container, and allow it to harden up in the freezer, probably at least an hour and a half.

Makes 4 servings (about 1 litre)

In Case of Downtown Chocolate Emergency...

Maybe you get a massive chocolate craving "that time of the month" or maybe you're just a chocolate fiend in general, but sometimes, you might just find yourself desperately requiring a massive dose of chocolate to quiet the chocolate demons in your head. Or is that just me? Anyhow, here are a couple of options downtown.


All You Can Eat Chocolate Fondue at Capstone Tea House on Robson St.

First, Capstone Teahouse (1429 Robson St., just off Broughton St. 604-608-2866) not only has a variety of bubble teas and hot pots of non-bubble tea, they also have this all-you-can-eat chocolate fondue for $5.95 a person. It's nice and simple, and they will come around and ask you if you'd like more, and are quite happy to plunk down another platterful of little fruit chunks, pretzels, gummy bears, and mini marshmallows down in front of you, should you care to take their "all-you-can-eat" to heart. A couple of nice features of this place include a long counter at the windows equipped with plenty of power outlets for those laptoppy types, and some very attractive spoons and cup and saucer sets. Wow, a casual full-service dessert place that doesn't suck - much needed in the downtown core, in my opinion. They've recently started doing ice cream balls too, that you can add on to your chocolate fondue to dunk. Their hot black sesame bubble tea with pearls is shown in the background of the photo. It's yummy, and the sweetener sugar syrup is served on the side in a cute little glass flask so that you can sweeten it to your taste. It's a good thing my spoon-stealing friend doesn't live in Vancouver. Even I'm a little tempted with these babies. (I'll take a close-up photo next time and post it). There is a Denman St. locoation that I haven't had a chance to try, but it seems to look a little more cramped in there, from the window.


The Chocoholic Buffet at The Sutton Place Hotel's Fleuri Restaurant

If you're looking to really treat someone or yourself (hopefully both) to a decadent chocolate fix, maybe The Sutton Place Hotel's Chocoholic Buffet in their Fleuri Restaurant ($24 per person) might be to your liking. We arrived for the 6:00 - 8:30 pm seating (rather than 8:30 to 10 pm), and I think we were the first ones to dive in to the perfectly arranged buffet. Crime Lab Boy likened it to the joy of walking through fresh snow. The staff are pretty talented at making that buffet look fresh and inviting throughout the night though, so don't worry about timing. We made reservations ahead of time, and I would recommend that. The Chocoholic Buffet is offered Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. There wasn't any one dessert that really knocked my socks off. They're all pretty good, but I think it's really all about the decadence of the entire experience. The service was great, and they always seem to be able to make dining there feel like a special occassion. I went for one of the crepes too, made just for me by the crepe station person, and topped with some gelato from the freezer behind her. You might think that the excitement of all that chocolate in a buffet setting might somehow overpower the evening so that everything winds up being all about the chocolate, but I found that the buffet and coffees allowed for a very nice, leisurely evening of conversation and connection. In fact, for me, I think the consumption of chocolate greased the wheels of the conversation machine, much like the way that talking over glasses of red wine can. Remember not to overdo it, or you'll pay for it. Or, as with the wine, overdo it with gusto, and be prepared for the consequences, which might be worth it, for that brief luxurious moment of excess. Or not. That night, I hovered successfully in my little chocolate window of not too much, but enough to really enjoy it and get that delicious buzz. Oh, don't you get that food high too?

A Close Up Look at one of the Fleuri offerings.

Fortune House in Metrotown

Just a quick note about the Fortune House Seafood Restaurant (Metropolis Mall, near the skytrain exit, 604-438-8686) Mother's Day dinner that my family had last month. We had a set dinner for six for $198 (for the five of us), on probably the busiest day of the year for Chinese restaurants.

Incidentally, I would guess that Valentine's Day is probably the busiest day for non-Chinese upper end restaurants, which may illustrate some interesting cultural difference in priorities. This is a very specifically Chinese-Canadian phenomenon, as they are both Western holidays but perhaps Mother's Day is more strongly adopted by Chinese Canadians as a result of the deference to elders that is part of the Chinese culture. I'm really just speculating here. I don't think my Dad has ever taken my Mom out to dinner for Valentine's but maybe everyone else in the Chinese Canadian community does. The communal dining in Chinese restaurants aren't the best for a dinner for two anyhow.

Well, back on topic, I've never been that big a fan of Fortune House, and this meal was no exception. Usually I'm just slightly disappointed in the food quality, being a Chinese food veteran, and knowing how good the dishes can be. This time it was the service, but it's not the typical complaint for service on a busy night. This time, the food came out too FAST. Rather than most of the dishes coming out separately, as should be the case for a set banquet menu for an upper end Chinese restaurant, our dishes came out all at once. Okay, I get it, you want to move the tables, and fit in as many seatings as possible. But bringing out the hot soup at the same time as the lobster meant that you have to choose which one of these things you want to eat hot. Both dishes suffer immensely when eaten cold, as I discovered that night. I could tell that the lobster dish (pieces are first deep fried, then tossed in a garlicky, onion and green onion sauce) was probably very well executed when it came out of the kitchen, but it lost so much when it cooled down. The menu was a nice collection of dishes, and their sweet touch of presenting each mom with a carnation and a little gift picture frame at the end of the dinner was great, but being rushed through the dinner really almost ruined the experience. The food was still good, despite having to eat it cold, but it's just a shame because it would have been great if it had been served properly. We had a cold plate of thinly sliced meats and jellyfish (not the best I've ever had, but quite acceptable), shark fin soup (I'm having trouble convincing my family that we should boycott this dish to be environmentally responsible), lobster, a great mushroom and pea sprouts dish that was like eating sliced abalone with oyster sauce (the highlight of the meal), fish with vegetables, free range chicken, fish and shrimp fried rice, and sweet bean soup for dessert. The cooking seems to have improved here since the last time I was there, from what I can tell. Now it's just a matter of timing.

Afro Canadian Restaurant

There's something wonderfully comforting about the Afro Canadian Restaurant (324 Cambie St. between Hastings and Cordova, 604-682-2646). Sitting quietly in a gritty corner of Gastown, and tended by a warm, friendly owner, it's a great choice for a quick dinner before a movie at Tinseltown, especially for anyone who wants to find out if their date isn't too prissy for the Downtown East Side, for sharing food, or for eating with their hands. Crime Lab Boy and I enjoyed two meat selections served together on the same platter, the jerk chicken (chicken sauteed in spicy sauce then stewed in a red pepper, garlic and onion sauce, $8) and the East African lamb (fried boneless pieces of lamb in Ethiopian style clarified and spiced butter with onions and green peppers, $9). It came garnished with tomatoes and lettuce, and served on rice and injera bread, the fluffy, soft white flat bread of Ethiopian cuisine, that you tear off to pick up the stews with your hands. The food was tasty and satisfying and the atmosphere relaxed. It's a great quiet spot for chatting leisurely while picking away at the communal platter of hearty food. While we ate on this sunny summer evening, the familiar Vancouver smell of pot wafted by briefly from the open door, the music in the background was something pleasant and upbeat, and generally everyone in the restaurant (us, the staff, and one other table) seemed to be in good spirits and radiating a positive vibe. This might be a good spot for vegetarians too. They have lots of vegetable selections, including combinations like the Taste of Africa ($7) which is red lentils, mixed vegetables, and green vegetables served on the injera. Or try three meats for two people for $17.

To give you a little perspective, as much as I love Afro Canadian Restaurant, I might rate Nyala in Kitsilano slightly higher on food alone, but it certainly beats out Addis Cafe on Commercial Drive, based on my one visit there (I remember the meat was dried out and on the bland side at Addis). Both the chicken and the lamb were tender and flavourful at Afro Canadian, and I thoroughly enjoyed the food on my two visits there. I have yet to try Harambe on Commercial Drive. I still have fond memories of the food at Queen Sheeba, an Ethiopian restaurant in Kits that closed down years ago. I think it was there that I first encountered Ethiopian cuisine, and it appealed to me instantly. The injera soaks up all the fatty, delicious juices from the dishes, and there's always too much food. There's a wonderful intimacy to the meal, using your hands to eat off the same platter with your dinner companion(s). There's a bit of primal appeal to eating without utensils and separate plates, and it has the same sort of effect as gathering around a campfire together. It strikes me that it's a perfect meal to bond with people you really like. I've been lucky enough to have done just that many times, with different groups and individuals, and have never broken injera with anyone I didn't like. Maybe that's why Afro Canadian Restaurant has such a pleasant and upbeat vibe - maybe the style of food itself doesn't allow for anything else.

Oysters, Oysters, Oysters

Ever get a craving for deep-fried oysters? I have fond childhood memories of huge mounds of hot, crispy, golden-battered, five-spice-salted packets of ocean goodness. We would get them as one dish of ten in typical Chinese banquets in Vancouver Chinese restaurants back in the 80's. For whatever reason, it's no longer one of the standard dishes in vogue these days around town for Chinese banquets, and it's not really a dish that I tend to order when just having a small meal at a Chinese restaurant because when I do crave a deep-fried oyster, I'm only looking for one or two...maybe three if they're exceptional. This is perfect for a ten- twelve person table at a banquet. But if you order a whole plate of them for a few people at dinner, be careful with these suckers. Fried oysters are just so dense and fatty, the risk of OD'ing is right up there with candy corn (for me, that would be precisely seven kernals max, at a sitting. Eight pushes me right over to "the bleahs"). Same with Peking Duck skin. Trust me on this one - do NOT order an entire Peking Duck for just three people, no matter how much the three of you think you want it.

Anyhow, there have been a number of cooked oyster dishes in my dining recently, and the success of the dishes varied widely.

Look at this small dish below of breaded, deep-fried oysters at Kitanoya Guu with Otokomae in Gastown, which shocked me with the unnatural colour of their tartar sauce. Are oysters pretty in pink? I'm not sure. I think on this occassion I was just weirded out by the unexpected colour, though with the lemon slice, it should have made for a pretty presentation. The oysters were alright, but there are definitely more interesting dishes on their menu, and since I try not to order too many deep-fried dishes for any one meal there, my pick would be the deep-fried squid with spicy chili sauce. The other Guu, Guu with Garlic ( 1698 Robson St., 604- 685-8678) has a kaki mayo or oyster gratin, two small oysters served on the half shell, baked with a creamy sauce that is really delicious, and gets top priority when I'm there.


Fried Oyster with Pink (!) Tartar Sauce from the Guu in Gastown

I recently went to Horseshoe Bay Village, and had a late lunch at Ya Ya's Oyster Bar (6408 Bay ST., 604-921-8848). Can you go to a place called an Oyster Bar, and not get oysters? Well, actually, I might. Frankly, of the dishes we ordered, I was most impressed by their dry pork ribs. The Oyster Fritters ($10.99 for a half dozen) were okay, and served with both tartar and cocktail sauce, and the batter was crispy. Maybe I'm still longing for the very thinly battered (yet crispy) oysters of my childhood with the five-spice salt all over, but I didn't enjoy these as much as I thought I would.


Crispy Oyster Fritters, from Ya Ya's Oyster Bar

We also ordered their Oyster Platter ($10.99, half dozen), which has one each of their different baked oysters with sauce. We had a great time sampling all the topping combinations, but I found that most of the sauces overpowered the oyster itself. This might be a good dish for someone who doesn't actually like the flavour of oysters. And the fun factor alone almost makes the dish worthwhile, depending on your point of view. When it comes to enjoying the experience of a meal, sometimes it's not about the taste, but the tasting itself. You are also able to order a half dozen or dozen of each of the types. Here's the list:

The Ya Ya: spinach, cream, garlic, parmesan
The Bombay: seafood curry cream
The Lisbon: herb-roasted roma tomato coulis
The Fuego: Ya Ya's own hot chili and sauce
The Alexander: creamy seafood puree, sambuca, parmesan
The Rockerfeller: Ya Ya's sauce with bacon and cheddar melt


Oyster Platter, from Ya Ya's Oyster Bar

To give our palates a little break from the richness, we decided to go for a salad ($7.99) rather than a platter of fish and chips. It was definitely the right decision, as "the bleahs" were creeping in. Even our salad had little fried chunks in it though. In this case, they were breaded, deep-fried feta chunks. There was a pool of vinagrette at the bottom of the bowl, so the salad was a bit overdressed for my taste. But it's a fun salad, because the tomatoes were grilled, and the fried feta was interesting too. I kept intermittantly detecting a strange flavour in the salad that I wasn't enjoying but Bac'n Girl didn't get, and I was thinking it was an herb that didn't appeal to me. In the end, we decided it must have been a few rancid pine nuts. While most of the toasted pine nuts were fantastic, at least one was icky. Not something I'd expect to happen again there, but Name That Weird Flavour was an entertaining game to play, especially since I was sharing the dishes with a fellow foodie.


Fried Feta and Baby Spinach Salad with grilled tomatoes, cucumbers, carrot julienne, red onion, toasted pine nuts, balsamic vinegrette

Here's a picture of the dry ribs ($7.99). For me, these were perfect. Crispy, meaty, not too greasy, and heavily salted with coarse salt


Dry Ribs, from Ya Ya's Oyster Bar

Moving away from the deep fried, and heavily sauced, here are some grilled oyster options around. I finally made it to Go Fish! at Fisherman's Wharf at Granville Island when the stand was actually open (always thought of going either on a Monday or when it was too late at night), and it wasn't even that busy because of a bit of drizzle. I sat out on their patio, under an awning, and enjoyed a very nice oyster sandwich, their "Po' Boy," served with a little slaw on the side. I also had their special of the day appetizer, salmon brochettes with a sauce that I can't remember the name of, but I do remember enjoying its sweet and tangy flavour, as well as the apple slaw that accompanied it. The fish was wonderfully fresh, of course, and tender and moist (not overcooked).


Oyster Po' Boy, Go Fish!


Salmon Brochette, apple slaw, from Go Fish!

I've been meaning to make my way up to The Fish Cafe in Kerrisdale (2053 West 41st Ave, 604-267-3474) ever since visiting their booth at the Taste of the City event last September, 2005, where several restaurants showcased their food at the Plaza of Nations. I had a remarkably tasty little grilled oyster sandwich, and it was served up by very friendly people. I just got a good vibe from that experience, and it's enough to make me curious about their restaurant.


Grilled Oyster Sandwich, from Fish Cafe's booth at Taste of the City event, September 2005

If we're moving down from fried to grilled, then the last category must be raw. I must admit, I'm a bit of a newbie to raw oysters, and only really started eating them a few years back. I was initiated at some pretty respectable places though, and was thoroughly won over. I remember beautiful tiny, fresh oysters at C and Tojo's, presented as part of tasting menus, with very clean, refreshing dressings. I don't really order raw oysters on my own, but I can definitely appreciate them when they're put in front of me. Should we even bring up the aphrodesiac question? I wouldn't know - my guess is that everything served at C is an aphrodesiac. Now there's an endorsement! While I don't have any more to say about the effect of the oyster on the sex lives of humans (and I'm never one to knock a placebo effect, anyway. If it works, it works...and a little extra zinc won't hurt anybody), here's a word on the effect of humans on the sex lives of oysters. Apparently, the real reason behind the idea of avoiding eating oysters in the months without an "r" in the spelling (i.e. May, June, July, August), is not because they will be dangerous to eat in the summertime, but that they less tasty when they are gearing up for reproduction. In the late spring, oysters, like many creatures, become more interested in sex, and turn 80 percent of their body weight into sex organs, which happen to be thin, watery and tasteless to us. Interestingly, they will assume one gender for the season, and can change genders in following seasons. It's probably best to leave them alone more during this time anyway, so that they can make more baby oysters in peace. At the end of the summer, when the weather gets colder, they lose interest in sex, and reconvert their bodies, and become rich in glycogen and salts, making them fat and tasty again. Bacteria do generate faster in warmer months, but since much of our oysters are heavily regulated and farm-raised anyway, this isn't really a problem these days. It should,therefore, be safe to eat oysters any time of the year, but they will likely be plumper and taste better in the non-summer "r" months. So if you do eat some oysters this summer, I've got a couple of experiments for you. Try to make note of the size and taste of them now, and do a comparison in the winter to address the effect of the oyster's sex life on the quality of the oyster. As for addressing the effect of the oyster on the quality of human sex life, I'd better just leave the procedures to you.

Grouse Grub - Altitudes Bistro

Now that Grouse Grind season has started, perhaps all you hard-core athletic types will be looking to treat yourself at the top of the mountain. Although I only went up by the "civilized" route the other day - a relaxing tram ride to soak up the view of Vancouver - I was still looking for a treat at the top. I was pleasantly surprised to find high quality food and very reasonable pricing in their mid-range restaurant, Altitudes Bistro. I had a beautiful roast beef sandwich and salad for only $12, and Bac'n Girl had a mushroom ravioli main dish, served with warm bread, for $16. And this was all served in an elegant, yet comfortably casual room, with great service. We sat by the window, and you can't beat the view, if it's a clear, cloudless day. We still saw some of the city lights on our rainy day. I felt like we received great value for a tourist attraction (that costs $29.95 for adult general admission). We were just up for a quick look because I had free passes. But if you're interested in dining at The Observatory, their fine dining restaurant, admission is included with advance reservation. Also, you can also get your parking reimbursed if you spend at least $10 on food or souvenirs. I went to the Observatory for a Valentine's Day dinner years ago, and was thoroughly impressed also.


Mushroom Ravioli, tomato basil sauce, goat cheese, balsamic glaze

Bac'n girl enjoyed these very large ravioli. When I tasted it, I thought it was alright, but was happy that I ordered the sandwich.


Roast Beef Sandwich,sliced whole roasted striploin with paprika rub, Dijon mustard, radish sprouts, baguette. Served with salad and vinaigrette on the side.

I really enjoyed this sandwich on a nice toasted baguette. As you can see in the photo, the roast beef was perfectly medium rare, and it was presented quite attractively with the shredded carrot and sprouts. There was a pleasant amount of horseradish in the mayonnaise too, just enough to give the sandwich a little zip. I also appreciated the placement of the salad dressing on the side, allowing for total vinaigrette control. I did not request that specifically, but maybe more restaurants should consider this as their default, to avoid the dreaded drowning of greens. It's a toss-up (haha) for me though, because when someone does toss a salad "properly", it's nice to get that consistant coating of vinaigrette all over every leaf. Personal preference varies so much though, so the dressing on the side is pretty safe for almost everyone, except those who really like their dressing evenly distributed all over. Perhaps because they do get so many active, healthy types (ski and snowboard people in the winter, and hikers in the summer), they have a higher proportion of customers who skip the dressing altogether. We were very comfortable in our sporty clothes in the bistro, and received warm and attentive service. There is a more casual cafe located on the main floor of the chalet as well, if you are looking for counter service. But a full-service restaurant is more of a treat to me. I was particularly impressed that the Altitudes staff made us feel welcome and not rushed, even though we found ourselves being the last table in the restaurant. We walked in thinking there were lots of customers, but they were actually just a bunch of Volvo conference people who had wandered over from the Observatory restaurant that they had actually booked out, which was originally our first choice. With my experience at Altitudes though, I definitely wasn't disappointed. I can always come back another day to check out The Observatory. With Grouse Mountain admission (tram ride, etc.) included with dinner reservations, it would make quite a nice special date destination.

Board Game Cafe (Coal Harbour)

Just a quick note that there's a new place opening next week in Coal Harbour (across from Cardero's) where you can play board games, and have drinks. The new board game cafe will charge $4/hour, and offers a membership, that gives 15% off regular rates. They didn't have a pamphlet to offer me when I poked in, so I don't know how much the membership is, but they did mention to me that the drinks will be less expensive than they are in the surrounding coffee shops. The place looks nice and modern. Apparently this concept has been around in Korea for a while, as I've read on one website that there are about 250 of them there. Looks like there's already one in Burnaby called Borandsi, that charges $3.50/hour. I'm looking forward to the one in Coal Harbour. It should be fun, especially since many of the coffee shops in the area close very early in the night.

Ethnorestaurantology 101

A few recent experiences swirling around in my head have inspired me to coin a term, ethnorestaurantology ("say the word after me, boys and girls") and who knows, maybe it'll become a new academic field, and people will one day be able to get their PhD in it. Then you can get conversations like this:

"Is it Mrs. or Miss Hamsterweil?"
"It's Dr. Hamsterweil."
"Ooohh, Doctor. Medical?"
"Ethnorestaurantology, actually."

At least I think the word is new. As I'm writing this now, it doesn't Google up. After I publish this post, it will, though. Definition? Hmmm...how about the systematic study of restaurant customs and lore of different human societies.

We are terribly lucky in Vancouver to have such a wealth of restaurants from all different cultures of the world, with some restaurants even specializing in just one particular food item from that cuisine. It's also about the process of dining out with an understanding of the cultural context of the people, the cuisine, and the restaurant, or at least a desire for that understanding. And the possibilities are really endless here, because we now have all sorts of fusions of cultures evolving too. Just look at the Chinese restaurant branch alone, where we have authentic Szechuan, Northern Chinese, and Cantonese lines (some restaurants on this line more general, and some very specific, like a Hot Pot restaurant). And each of those can have offshoots by crossing with other cultures such as your Green Lettuce which is an Indian-style Chinese restaurant, or your local Hong Kong style cafe with Western influences, or your local Chinese Canadian diner (offering selections of either culture separately), or the bastardized food court Chinese food at your local mall.

One inspiration for the term is my own recent interest in recognizing my unfamiliarity with Korean food and deciding to do a little bit of directed exploration of the cuisine and the local Korean restaurant scene (part of it is that I've finally developed a taste for kimchi, which I really didn't like before). I'm getting a sense of a subculture of Vancouver (young Korean visiting students), and a taste of the origin (Korea and Korean culture) just by having a nice little meal out. It's like mental travelling. Leaving home, without actually leaving home. And dining at a restaurant that feels "authentic" is not going to be the same experience as dining at other Vancouver restaurants. Or other Canadian restaurants, and that's cool. For one thing, the servers themselves might be from the country of origin. Or the protocols are set by the owners who are from somewhere else. And those differences are something to be sought after, appreciated, investigated, and enjoyed. Thus, ethnorestaurantology. Would Korean restaurants gain more customers if they translated their menus and tweaked them with a more westernized slant? Probably. But I don't think they should. If they keep at it long enough, eventually everyone will learn the lingo, just like the average Vancouverite now has their own Japanese sushi restaurant vocabulary. How many people in town knew what a chirashi, tamago, or edamame is 30 years ago, compared to now? Foodies, like the people who would read this blog, will always lead the way, but you'll know it's mainstream when one day, say, McDonalds produces little packets of kimchi to accompany their new menu item.

Would you like your reading list for Ethnoresto 101? I just found this book recently at Book Warehouse: The Foodlover's Atlas of the World, by Martha Rose Shulman. The book spends a few pages discussing the food and food culture of each country, to put food in its geographical context. The author would be a good candidate for a Professorship at my imaginary all food-centred university offering a degree in ethnorestaurantology. Food U (FU?)...I can work on the name. But we've gotta have a Kitchen Stadium!

Another recent read that got me thinking about this is a fun book I'm reading called Garlic and Sapphires, by Ruth Reichl. It's a memoir of her experiences as the New York Times restaurant critic. She writes about her putting on various disguises and taking on new personas in order to be able to review anonymously in the New York restaurant scene. She includes the actual reviews she wrote, so you can read them after reading about the escapades she went through to come up with the review. She is now the editor of Gourmet magazine, and has some distance from the critic job, and can really tell about her whole experience, including her personal life at the time, and how that fit in with getting the story. She would visit a restaurant five times first and then reduce that all down into a nice, thick short piece. What I like about her reviews, is that she is hugely knowledgeable about the history of food, the cultures and cuisines of the world and she does her research in terms of the history of the specific people involved in the restaurant and even the building itself and the history of the city. She incorporates all that background into her writing, so that she's not just describing the restaurant, but putting it in all that context for the reader, as well as making it very personal to her own life and palate, as eating should be. In fact, dining out is all about personal experience. And believe it or not, dining out is something that you can get better and better at, but of course, ultimately it's all about your personal enjoyment. If you get a chance to read the book, there is one chapter on a fine Japanese sushi restaurant that is wonderful. And it comes from a place of familiarity and respect for the culture of Japanese cuisine and really, the entire society. That's what I mean when I'm saying we should all aspire to be ethnorestaurantologists. She should teach the first classes in it, at the first fully food-centred university. Incidentally, some of her descriptions are so good, instead of making me hungry as reviews do, reading them sated me like a food/restaurant experience substitute. In other words, she's so good at dining out - noticing all sorts of nuances in the food and in the overall experience - and so good in conveying them in writing, that I feel like I get as much out of reading her words, as I would experiencing it all myself..but without the calories.

Compare that review to this recent Globe and Mail review of Tojo's, by Alexandra Gill, which is another reason I was inspired to come up with the term. First though, I do want to point out I understand that all of dining out is subjective, and everyone's opinion on their experience is interesting to me. And there are all sorts of people out there, so there should be all sorts of reviews out there to represent different segments of society, and you simply tend to follow those who you think would enjoy things the way you do. If she didn't enjoy the experience, well, then, that's what happened, and no one should be faulted for that. And in this case, I think the review is fair in pointing out the huge difference in treatment you get when you're a big spender versus when you're going in for a few dishes (as this is something I've complained about myself), but some of the complaints of the service are just a bit annoying, because they aren't really a problem if you take into account the cultural context of the restaurant. One complaint is not being warned that a mushroom is very hot. But it's part of Japanese culture to serve something like noodles as piping hot as possible, and trust that the customer can make their own judgement, and wait until it has cooled down to their own preferred temperature. She also notes that she was surprised by the complimentary shooters, when they weren't "even offered water" but why would one expect to be offered water in a Japanese restaurant that wants to be authentic? People drink hot tea in Japan, and you get served that right away, and it's complimentary (like tap water is here). If one wanted water, all you need to do is ask. And really, the more authentic a restaurant is, and the truer the staff are to customs of their homeland, the more interesting it makes it for the diner. And the more open you are to this idea of culinary "travel," the richer your dining experiences will be. Do some graduate level dining, and eat well in the name of research! Just hand in a draft of your thesis next week.

Port Moody Foodie

Peckish in Port Moody? Or maybe you're absolutely ravenous in Port Moody, a state I've been finding myself in lately. I've been spending a lot more time way out in "the boonies," visiting the regional parks, and here are a couple of great little finds that a Port Moody fellow foodie let me in on. If you are looking for something filling, Rehanah's Roti (2518 St. John's Street, a few blocks away from the turn to get onto the Barnet Highway, if travelling back to Vancouver, 604-936-1969) should do the trick. This little counter-service shop (cash only) has Trinidadian and Carribean food. Their goat roti (just under $10) is a wonderful bundle of goat and potato curry tucked into a soft flatbread blanket. For the summer, it's a nice take out option for sitting outside by the water in the park. Or you can have it there, in the simple shop. Rehanah, the friendly owner, has a few tables inside, and serves it on a real plate, with a slice of melon with the roti. She seems to be running it all on her own, so if it's busy, you may have to wait a few minutes for your roti, but it's worth it. There are veggie, chicken, shrimp and beef rotis, jamaican patties, and sauces too. You can specify the spiciness you want, and I'm sure she'll accomodate you masochistic types who like things especially fiery.

Maybe on another day, you might be looking for a nice quiet and relaxing place to chat over dessert and coffee. Cumpari's Gelato and Caffe (535 North Road, across from Lougheed Mall, 604-936-8089) has lots of tables, plenty of flavours of gelato to choose from, and all sorts of fancy cakes and pastries, making for very pretty display cases. There are very friendly staff at the counter too. The Crispy Crunch chocolate cake I had was too sweet for me, but I definitely enjoyed the elegant, airy atmosphere of the place, and I'm willing to give it another shot and poke my way through some of their other desserts, like the little mini cheesecakes. Or maybe I'll have gelato next time. The pink grapefruit gelato I sampled was very nice and fully grapefruity, and my coffee was good too. They have ample parking in their own parking lot. It's like a little dessert oasis - something I wasn't expecting in that area. The building apparently lived a former life as a IHOP [edit: Burger King], but it's makeover has made it look quite chic. It's huge, has two levels, and has an outdoor patio too.

Just a warning though, don't follow my example of doing a roti stop and folllowing it immediately with a stop at Cumpari's. My tummy was cursing me for that foolhardy move. I'm sorry, Tummy. I won't do it again...

Hamilton Street Grill

I had a lovely, straight-forward meal at a lovely, straight-forward restaurant in Yaletown. The Hamilton Street Grill (1009 Hamilton St. at Nelson, 604.331.1511) is comfortable, and I would say, pleasantly unpretentious, by Yaletown standards. No loud, funky music or irritating, trend-sodden Yaletowners being too la-di-da for their own good. Just a classically manly room, with lots of dark wood and brass - casual, without being too boisterous. It's dimly lit, with a warm yellow glow inside, and it has a bit of a patio too. I don't really have too much to say about this place, because everything was good. No complaints, decent food, and I would come back (when I've got the extra cash). It's just the type of place that would give you a nice, reliable, hearty meal with no surprises whenever you're in the mood for that kind of thing. The food was definitely well-executed. My meat was cooked just the way I requested (rare to medium-rare is what I like), and everything was very tasty. The service was fine, and friendly. Not perfection on this particularly busy time on a busy Saturday night, but Potato Salad Boy and I were walk-ins, anyway, so it didn't bother us. Our waiter apologized for the very small delays (in getting our orders, and in getting cutlery at one point), so all was good. Prices are what you might expect in Yaletown, so dinner is not going to be a bargain, but I generally came out of it feeling like we were getting our money's worth, and, being mainly a great place to get a steak, the food feels substantial and satisfying. Looking back on it, I could probably find a more inventive and exciting meal elsewhere in the same price range (spending $28 on a main course), but there's something nice about a good old-fashioned steak and potatoes meal once in a while. I can't remember the name of my girly cocktail, but I know I enjoyed it. Didn't have the appetite to try appetizers on top of our mains, but they sound nice, and I'm sure I'll get a chance on another occassion.


West Coast Mixed Grill

I really enjoyed the West Coast Mixed Grill ($28) I ordered, that included a tasty brochette of tiger prawns, a braised lamb shank, a petit filet mignon wrapped in bacon, nice seasonal veggies and roasted garlic mashed potatoes. My favourite item in that plate was the petit filet. Potato Salad Boy had the 8 oz. Grilled Sirloin ($20), also served with seasonal vegetables and roasted garlic mashed potatoes.


Grilled Sirloin

We shared the HSG's signature dessert of Warm Gingerbread Pudding in Caramel Sauce, with Ginger and Pumpkin Gelatos. This was very decadent, and I would recommend it. The warm pudding is drenched in a thick, ultra sweet caramel sauce, and the gelatos attempt to balance this heaviness with their icy, light, sorbet-like texture. There was so much, we couldn't even finish the dessert between the two of us.


Warm Gingerbread Pudding with Caramel Sauce, and Ginger and Pumpkin Gelatos

We stopped by for an easy, quick bite, and good conversation. We had a fine meal of drinks, steak, and a rich dessert in a comfortable setting. In short, we got everything that we needed.

H-Mart - New Asian Market Downtown

When I crashed the Sun Run a couple of weeks ago ("oh, look, 50,000 people going for a walk/run...I'll just tag along"), I happened upon a new Korean supermarket downtown on the corner of Robson and Seymour, up on the second floor. It's great, has decent produce, and even has a food court. It's H-Mart, which I've just found out is quite a large chain of supermarkets all over North America. Quite an exciting find for me. I'm having some trouble finding their new downtown Vancouver location on their official websites, but here is their Coquitlam site, and their U.S. site.

Nor Boo on Robson St.

I personally find Korean restaurants just slightly intimidating and not easily accessible, in the same way that finding out about jazz music can be. Even though I like them, it can be difficult to know where to start, and what to choose for the uninitiated like me. I have some trouble remembering the names of the dishes too. To me, they all seem to sound like something Cinderella's fairy godmother should be singing (like Bibimbap...wasn't that her magic word?). Anyway, because it's all new to me, it makes diving into one of the Korean restaurants frequented by actual Korean students feel like a little adventure. I went to Nor Boo (1536 Robson St., 604-806-0369) in that stretch of Robson a few blocks east of Denman that has several Korean places. I just like the name. The sweet barley hot tea was great. The side dishes were very good, including the kimchee. I'm not usually a big fan, but their kimchee was quite nice. This time, I also received bean sprouts, potatoes which are a bit sweet and salty, and a little macaroni salad.


Side Dishes

I ordered a big beef, vermicelli noodle dish, which was massive and very tasty. It wasn't very spicy. At about $15, it's meant for two people. Other dishes are about $7 -8. They also have these great bubbling pots of soup that have noodles and other things added at the table.


Beef and Vermicelli Noodles

These little student hang outs have a youthful energy to them, and they're great casual places to get some good, cheap food. I'll go back to Norboo, and I'll try some of the other Korean joints too. There's also a great cluster of Korean restaurants in the Port Moody/Coquitlam/Burnaby area, near Lougheed Mall.

Food Porn Alert

Do you know the cookbook area of the Chapters on Robson and Howe? I love sitting and browsing the cookbooks there at the cluster of chairs near the huge atrium-like wall of windows. I also love the fact that the best view in the building is right next to the cookbooks. It's usually nice and quiet, the natural light floods in, and on a beautifully sunny day, you can look out onto a postcard perfect slice of downtown, with the Vancouver Art Gallery, various surrounding skyscrapers, Robson Square, a few trees, and bustling Robson Street pedestrian traffic. Today I flipped through Susur, A Culinary Life, a unique, two-volume book from celebrated Toronto chef, Susur Lee. The two parts are presented as two books joined at the spine, with the first focussing on a biography of the chef, and his personal culinary life journey, and the second volume is a collection of recipes with full-page colour photographs of each dish. The platings are stunning, and really appeal to my love of intense, vibrant colour, and layering of textures.

Just like most celebrity chefs, the buzz around them always makes me suspect each might be a bit of an ass to work with, but it's probably just a by-product of the kind of self-confidence, attention to detail and sky-high standards that make their food so desirable in the first place. Susur, in particular, seems to come off as one of the most pretentious of the bunch, and I had never really had much of a desire to try his cuisine. But those photos have convinced me that I need to go to Susur (his Toronto restaurant) one day. They were THAT pretty. And the dishes are complex and sound really intriguing. The back cover plate photo with it's bright palette of baby veggies had me just staring and staring at it. The almost gruesome presentation of whole roasted squab - cut in three section, including the head, all garnished with a round of foie gras balanced on it's butt (while foie gras is liver from a different bird, to me, it's as if it's own guts are there to remind us of the bird as a whole organism, Something that is not shyed away from in Chinese cuisine, which is what provides the foundation of his cooking) - took me in too. His food has amazing visual impact.

Another famous restaurant with incredible visual impact that I'd like to visit is Chicago's Moto, where Chef Homaro Cantu really pushes the envelope of cooking, with incredibly inventive techniques and presentations. He's the one responsible for the ink-jet printer edible paper sushi, fresh herb-holding eating utensils, so that you take in the aromas of the herbs while bringing the food to your face, and even a clear, tabletop "oven" made of a clear plastic box that cooks your fish at your table while you eat the other dishes. Check their website out for more food porn. I'm not aware of a Moto or Homaro Cantu cookbook, but would love to see that.

Phnom Penh, Phinally!

Phnom Penh (244 E. Georgia, 604 682-5777 ) has hoards of fans, and it's been in Chinatown, just east of Main St. for years. They serve Vietnamese and Cambodian food. Somehow, I've managed to live all this time in Vancouver without having ever tried it...that is, until last week. Yay! Another restaurant knocked off my very long list of places to try. Cheeseboy and I went for a very pleasant early Saturday lunch. The place was already full of mostly other Asians, including large families, with a smattering of mixed couples (Asian girl, white boy) thrown in for good measure. Good smells hit us as soon as we entered, as well as a general feeling of authenticity. It had the expected look of a fairly simple Chinatown restaurant that has been around for a while, but is well-maintained. I wanted to try their famous deep-fried squid with lemon, black pepper sauce. That was good, but not mind-blowing for me, as deep-fried spicy salt squid (which is deep-fried in a very light batter, then tossed with minced green chili peppers and garlic) is a favourite dish of mine to order in Chinese restaurants. Phnom Penh's version was quite good, and served with a nice, tart dip of lemon juice and black pepper, which is a really nice addition actually. I would order this dish again, but I definitely want to try their deep-fried chicken wings next time, as I've heard good things about that. We just couldn't handle too many deep-fried thingies that early in the morning. We also had a tasty rice vermicelli dish with stir fried beef and veggies on it, as well as a shrimp salad roll. There are lots of dishes to try on the menu, and it was hard to choose just a few. They even have a couple of frogs' legs dishes. Prices were good, with our bill totalling $31.67 before tip (including tax, and Vietnamese coffees). Service was great, and I actually found it quite refreshing that this very Asian restaurant didn't rush us out at the end of our meal by putting the bill down right away. We actually had to ask someone for the bill, and could leisurely finish our pot of tea there. The Vietnamese coffees with sweetened condensed milk was perfect for waking us up on a sleepy weekend morning. I enjoyed this meal very much, felt very comfortable there, and would definitely go back. And who knows? Maybe I'll have to make a new top five fried chicken list after my next visit.

Breaking Bread

Sometimes it's really easy to forget about the bread course that gets served at nice restaurants. You don't actually order it, most of the time it's complimentary, and comes to your table quietly. But sometimes it can have an enormous impact. I've been thinking about the best bread I've been served at restaurants, and have had a wide range of bread experiences lately. I thought I'd throw the spotlight on this portion of the meal, to give kudos to those restaurants that take some extra care and offer something special. Perhaps I can also encourage some places to put a little more care into what can be a wonderful start to a meal. Also, I'd like to hear about your restaurant bread experiences. It's wonderful how joyful something as simple as bread can be. Spread some happiness with some nice, warm, fresh bread with a bit of real butter, served at a spreadable temperature.

I had the best foccacia in my life recently at a Seattle place called Restaurant Zoe, and the constant flow of this wonderful bread made up a huge part of my overall impression that I received spectacular service that night (along with things like their amazing ability to keep my water glass filled. I was dehydrated that night, and you would have thought I was a beached cetacean with the rate at which I was taking in the water). I think the bread alone makes the place worth going to, but it was an all around great dinner. It looked like they had one server dedicated to just walking around doling out bread out of her basket with her tongs. I was loving the bread, and as soon as I made the foccacia disappear, it was magically and immediately replaced. It was irresistable - light and fluffy with just the right amount of chew, tasty, savoury, and served with nice olive oil and balsamic vinegar. In contrast, I checked out Savory Coast, on Robson Street, a couple of times, during and after Dine Out Vancouver in January, and while they seem to be quite proud that they make their own foccacia in-house, I don't think they really have much reason to be proud of the overly dense, charred, cosmetic sponges they served us. If only I could get them to taste Restaurant Zoe's foccacia. However, Savory Coast does serve their bread with a very nice little hummous.

Another wonderful basket of bread that sticks in my memory is the beautiful assortment of little buns at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts at the mouth of Granville Island. Served with good, old plain butter, the bread there is likely the result of having on staff a very skilled baking instructor, and the luxury of having other reasons for putting so much effort into the bread (namely, the teaching of baking classes, as well as operating a bakery counter just outside of the restaurant).

One big bread disappointment came surprisingly from a highly touted restaurant in town, Chambar. With main dishes ranging in price from $19 - 23, there should be no reason for them to not offer a complimentary bread course. Especially since many customers are ordering the moule frites, which, as the name indicates, comes with fries (a little bitty dish of them compared to the huge vat of mussels), but would be lovely with some bread to sop up the broth. Instead of an automatic bread course, they offer a $2 side dish of bread with smoked paprika butter. The flavoured butter is a nice touch, but come on, just skip the twoonie charge. That $2 they make is hardly worth the cheapo factor that comes from charging it. Even though I know that two bucks is really not much money, it just leaves me feeling like the service is stingy. I don't really mind a charge as much when it is a lower end restaurant, like La Bodega. Their bread was pretty good, and they charge for it.

There are several examples of low budget type restaurants that do serve complimentary bread though. I think Sami's at Oak and Broadway is gone now, but I used to love their flatbread served with two richly coloured sauces - a sweet tamarind, and a spicy sauce. I love the corn tortilla chips and salsa served in Mexican restaurants in general too. Burgoo in Kitsilano has a really tasty corn muffin. The Portugese buns kept coming to us at Senhor Rooster, since we kept using them as vehicles to sample their wonderful sauces. And in the U.S., isn't the only real reason that people love the Olive Garden is the unlimited bread and salad? I have a vague memory of being quite fond of the Keg's bread too. On the middle price range, Fiction and Aurora both went the extra step of presenting flavoured butters to accompany their bread when I visited.

I'm sure I've had very nice bread at places like C, Lumiere, Bishops, The Pear Tree, and Diva, but I don't really recall right now. At Lumiere, I do remember appreciating the prettiness of the square butter plate with it's square of butter sitting perfectly on it. And was it the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts Restaurant who decorated each butter portion with a single elegant sage leaf?

All I'm really saying is that each component of a restaurant meal is one more opportunity to impress with some special detail. A restaurant can either make use of that opportunity or miss the boat. And the possibilities really are endless with bread. Just ask my all-time favourite (food) superhero, Anpanman, from Japan, his baked good colleagues, and his arch enemy, Balkinman, a germ man who plots with his evil henchmen to mold and mildew Anpanman's head.

1215

Andrew Morrison said last week, in a review of Abigail's Party, "slightly imperfect meals, when perfectly served, are okay by me." This is often how I react to restaurants too. And this is generally my take on a brand new izakaya style restaurant on Davie St., 1215 (604-633-1215, 1215 Davie at Bute, former Hesperos Greek Restaurant). I really loved the staff at 1215. I couldn't have been made to feel more comfortable in the little dark room, than I was, despite being the first dinner customer of the night, and being dramatically outnumbered by all the staff. In fact, this tiny place had what seemed to be a ridiculous number of staff that night. And every person seemed to have a hand in serving me. Picture it - one customer, sitting at the bar, with two male and two female staff attending...and I was sitting right in front of the chefs preparing my meal too. I think that they will do well on vibrant Davie St. , simply because they've figured out, unlike many restaurants in town, that people will come back to a restaurant with excellent service, and will tend to be a bit forgiving if the people involved in an establishment are really friendly and accommodating. It's evident in the number of staff scheduled for that evening on a Tuesday, two weeks into operation, and it's also evident in the warmth of the service, and even the nametags that they wear. They are all clearly marked with their first names. Even Chef/Owner Shige wears one. He's the chef from Hapa Izakaya. And the enthusiastic shouting, both in greeting and in goodbye was maybe the loudest and cheeriest I've ever heard in a Japanese restaurant. For me, I will come back to this restaurant just because of this earnest attitude.

However, the place, for me, begs for comparison with Yuji's on W. 4th, because of the "fusion" (oh, how I hate using the 'f word'...) of izakaya style food with western influences and Vancouver ingredients has been going on there beautifully for years now, and to be perfectly honest, while dishes seem hit and miss (at least right now) at 1215, I've never had a miss at Yuji's. My first dish, blue fin tuna tartar with avocado ($8 - 9), served with pieces of nori to make my own wraps was beautiful dish to look at, and just fine to eat, but not terribly exciting. The fish was fresh, and the servers did tell me that they had just received the blue fin, and the daily specials sheet featured various blue fin dishes. I probably should have ordered the blue fin tuna tataki dish, as recommended, for a more exciting flavour. I did enjoy my "pork poppers" which were three panko-breaded little pork, tomato (I think) and cheese lumps served with a little tonkatsu sauce on the side, as well as some nicely dressed baby mesclun. I also ordered a carbohydrate dish - their garlic rice stuffed squid in a tomato sauce, which I would not order again. While it was flavourful and deeply garlicky, the overall mushiness of the dish just didn't appeal to me. One more note about the exceptional service though. When I suggested that this dish would benefit from a crunchy accompaniment, my server happily accepted this comment, and even (a little embarassingly for me) passed it on to the chef directly. I do take some responsibility though, in not enjoying this dish, because it was well-described in the menu. I regretted my choices overall, and feel like I could have ordered better. And to be fair, their dishes are meant to be shared with others, and normally one person wouldn't be faced with an entire rice-stuffed squid to eat on their own. But let's be real here for a moment. A really successful restaurant should have a menu made up of all winners, with a number of superstars. The superstars might have been in that menu, but I spent $27.50 (including tax, and a $3 Calpico and soda, but before tip) trying to find them. But will I try again? Absolutely. And it'll be very interesting to see how the dishes get tweaked as this brand new restaurant develops. Having enjoyed the Hapa Izakaya food from Chef Shige immensely, I have a lot of confidence in this little place, and I have a feeling they'll find their way soon. And it's already garnered some positive attention from food critics (Tim Pawsey's Vancouver Courier article, and Andrew Morrison's Westender article), despite its quiet opening, lack of advertising and their blacked out window concept. Well, it seemed to work out for Hapa. I stumbled onto the place simply because I got off the bus right in front of it, and they had propped open the door, allowing me a glimpse of their menu sitting on a stand in the doorway table. It's a little strange to walk into such a dark little room on a sunny day, but it didn't really bother me. The room is plain, but I think that they can leave that alone, and work on the food, to ensure that people on Davie will feel like they will get their money's worth and choose this restaurant over the others nearby. I do give them credit for providing an interesting non-traditional menu, when most of the Davie St. offerings tend to be on the safe side, and look forward to trying their intriguing matcha desserts too. After all, they did provide me with a very enjoyable time overall, gossiping at the bar, especially the part where he let me in on their recent restaurant reviewer experiences. I wanted to "spill the edamame" on my secret blogging identity, but of course, I had to hold back. Incidentally, the internet is amazing thing! I believe I've coined this phrase, when I used it in my first Yuji's post, and it seems to have become adopted by one other food writer now (or perhaps arrived at independently), and maybe it'll eventually become a common part of the foodie lexicon, at least in Vancouver. Anyhow, back to 1215. The lesson learned here, for any of you thinking of opening up a restaurant or improving an existing restaurant, is: never underestimate the service component of the restaurant equation.

Senhor Rooster: The East End, Portugese Bishop's

The Assortment of Sauces (Tangi-Fruit, Piri-Piri, Jalapeno, Mango-Ginger, BBQ, and Extra-Hot)

Meet Senhor Rooster (3885 Rupert St. at 23rd Ave. 604-434-1010). That bird makes a mean sauce! Actually more like six of them...and counting. This little Portugese restaurant in the middle of nowhere (yes, I'm being downtown-centric), is one of the best restaurants in Vancouver that I've been to in a long time. And it's not about the decor, which is fairly humble, intimate, and comfortable, with white tablecloths in a place you initially might not expect them. Partly, it's the unexpected pleasure of finding such tasty dishes with such complex sauces, with a wonderfully friendly staff in such a low key place. But there are tasty, friendly, ethnic non-fancy places in plenty of areas. Why does this place grab me so much? To me it's like the East End, ethnic version of Bishop's. You've got a warm, hospitable chef/owner, who seems to have a passion for food, popping out of the kitchen to serve the customers himself, with an exceptionally homey little restaurant. This restaurant accomplishes the same feeling that John Bishop does at his place - like he's hosting a dinner party at his own home, and you are his (very fortunate) guests. Both chefs also allow the ingredients to speak for themselves in a fairly uncluttered way. You've also got phenomenally tasty food, and on top of all that, (this is where the comparison falters) you're getting it all for amazingly low prices in this hidden away gem. Starters were under $10. I think our prawns were $8 or $9 and entrees between $10 - 15. Yet another reminder that there really aren't many good reasons to go to those casual chain restaurants whose mains start at prices above that.

To begin, nice Portugese buns and butter are brought to the table, as well as a collection of sauces for dinner. Sample them all, and you'll see why the foodies are raving about this place. Rumour has it that chef/owner Daniel Alexandre used to work in the Il Giardino kitchen. Things are simple here. No wine list, but whatever the red was that night (I don't remember), I enjoyed. I'm not even sure how much our glasses of wine cost, but looking at the total of the bill, it must have been next to nothing. We started with prawns in the delicious piri-piri sauce. Some of the sauces have some nice heat like the piri piri, and some are sweeter and milder. If you can't get enough of the stuff, he has bottles of the sauces available to take home. We had one additional, unlabelled sauce in the collection of the table that was very hot, which I think was a newer addition to the line-up.


Prawns in Piri Piri Sauce

Daniel himself came out to tell us the specials that evening, and he was listing away, when he said, "we have horse." After we did the inevitable verbal equivalent of a double-take, and Daniel assured us he wasn't joking, my dining companion, Martini Man, quickly jumped on the opportunity to try it, and there was nothing else on the menu for him. Well, I wasn't so sure, and anyways, I don't think I was THAT hungry. Daniel continued his list of specials, then tacked on that he had rack of lamb too. That was it for me. I think it may help to call ahead and ask, if you are looking for that. We did make reservations, and I would definitely recommend making them if you go, as the word has been out on this place for a while (it sounds like it's become an eGullet clubhouse). The night we went, most of the restaurant was filled with one huge birthday group (maybe 36 people), who took up three long lengths of tables. The restaurant seemed to handle this very well, and the tables got big mixed grill platters of meat. Yet our server, a very sweet Portugese gentleman, was quite attentive, and made our experience at Senhor Rooster very warm and comfortable.


Horse in a Rosemary Tomato Based Sauce

The horse meat was actually pretty good. Pounded thin, tender, and very mild with no gamey taste at all. It was served with potato and a wonderful assortment of mixed vegetables, including a few pretty lotus root slices. The rosemary flavoured tomato sauce was really good. Martini Man ate his whole entree, but we both definitely preferred the lamb. Oh, the lamb... So incredibly tender, and yes, it was an entire rack! I shared some with Martini Man, but somehow, I had no trouble putting almost all of it down. Yes, it was more expensive than the other mains, at $35, but it is worth every penny (and probably more). Eight perfectly cooked, flavourful chops, covered in a rich brown sauce, and served that evening with potato and mixed veggies. High styling presentation, using unusual ingredients in odd combinations is a lot of fun, but this simple, homey plate with big, rich flavours just speaks to me, and is the perfect antidote to fancy-trendy-restaurant overload.


Rack of Lamb

To finish off, we shared a sweet, creamy Portugese dessert called babas de camelo. Just a really nice soft, texture, and with several quick scoops with our spoons, it disappeared in seconds.


Babas de Camelo

Daniel, the consummate host, treated us to a little extra something at the end of the meal - he brought us two snifters of a cherry liqueur he had made himself, and it was delicious, just like everything else he served. His quietly swooping over with a "Try this, I made it myself" just made things feel all that much more irresistably personal. Oh, and as if I haven't gushed enough, I love the name of the place too! In short, the restaurant is simple, genuine, light-hearted, and very good at what it does. Gawd, it feels good to be able to wholeheartedly recommend a restaurant once in a while!

Sunday Worship

For many people, Sunday mornings are for religious ritual. Well, I'm not so different, but I pray at a different personal altar - my beloved stovetop. This morning, I was seeking the ultimate pancake truth, and let me tell you, I found the answers I've been looking for. These flapjacks were absolutely divine! I have a new book that I draw inspiration from in my life, and it's the New Best Recipe from the editors of Cook's Illustrated and the makers of the television show "America's Test Kitchen." Hmmm, I wonder what the differences are in the old book vs. the new... Anyhow, it's a fantastic publication. If you are familiar either with the periodical or the tv show, you will know that they basically geek out in their quest for the best possible method of preparing whatever they tackle, trying variation after variation, and testing their results on a panel of tasters. I love that! This book clearly explains their testing, considers the aspect of personal preference, considers both equipment, ingredients, and procedures, and settles on a favourite recipe for each dish, while keeping a very practical approach in terms of reasonable time, recipe complexity, and clean-up. It's filled with great tips and also notes on tastings of different brands and types of ingredients. Well, I decided to try their light and fluffy pancakes recipe. I've been searching for a light, fluffy (is there anyone who likes them otherwise?), sweet, and flavourful pancake recipe. While preparing and eating my pancakes, I was reflecting on the spiritual choices that people make for their lives. I found this definition of meditation, in the context of religion, on a website: "An extended and continuous concentration on a single object, with this object being the only thought in your mind, may be a good definition of meditation." One very useful purpose of prayer, religious ritual, and religious mediation is to create a personal calm within, to counter the stresses of life. Well, you can connect with your God(s) in church, and I'll take my pancake ceremony. The service was complete with music (today, the radio was playing classic rock), the smell of the butter in the pan (better than incense), personal reflection, concentration, a sense of calm, and a bit of ceremony in the application of maple syrup. A code of ethics? Well, I think it's immoral to use that fake maple syrup stuff. Only pure Canada Gr. 2 for me. Religious services also provide social connection with others of like mind, and isn't it a great thing to share in the greatness of pancakes with someone you love? So I'd like to share my recipe with you. I substituted sour cream and a little 1% milk for the milk with lemon juice (or buttermilk) called for in the recipe simply because that's what I had around, but I really liked the sweet, tangy flavour and texture of these pancakes, and may wind up always using these. I also halved most of ingredients in the recipe from the book (which originally makes "16 pancakes, serving 4 to 6") . I followed their tips for using a very gentle hand in mixing the dry with the wet ingredients, and not overmixing. They also believe that the best way to test the temperature of your griddle/non-stick frying pan, is to make a mini pancake with a tablespoon of batter, and it should yield a golden brown colour after 1 minute, rather than a blond or dark, uneven pancake. The book is full of great guidelines like how to keep your pancakes warm until you've made them all. I picked it up at Book Warehouse, and I think it's changed my cooking forever. My faith in the book grows with each recipe that I try to incorporate in my life. Had enough? Yah, I thought so. So here's the recipe:

Nancy's Enlightening Pancakes

Makes about eight four-inch pancakes (or two large deities), serving one to two

1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup 1% milk (approximately, to yield very thick but oozing consistency)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon of sugar
1 teaspoon of baking powder
1/2 teaspoon of baking soda
1/2 teaspoon of salt
1 large egg
3 tablespoons of ulsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
a little butter to rub the pan with, or vegetable oil.
optional: 1/2 cup of fresh or frozen blueberries, rinsed and dried

1. Whisk flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt together in a deep bowl.
2. Whisk the egg and melted butter into the sour cream and milk.
3. Make a well in the dry ingredients, add the wet, and whisk gently until just combined. It should be lumpy. Do not overmix.
4. Heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for 3 to 5 minutes, rub a little butter or oil on pan, use mini pancake method of testing heat discussed above. Pour 1/4 cup of batter onto three spots on the skillet. Alternately, make cutesy shapes with the batter. Yes, that's a Nancy variant on the recipe. Could you tell? Then you can say, "I see [insert favourite religious or pop culture figure here] in my pancakes!" I recommend Laughing Buddha, as he should be particularly easy to make with blobs of batter. And there's always Elvis in his later years.
5. If using blueberries, sprinkle fresh or frozen dry berries onto the pancakes now, as they set. Cook until large bubbles begin to appear, 1.5 to 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes with a thin, wide spatula, and cook until golden brown on the second side, 1 to 1.5 minutes longer. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve immediately. If making a larger batch, preheat the oven to 200 degrees F and place pancakes on a rack in a baking sheet to keep pancakes warm and not soggy.

Perfectly Parkside - A Dine Out Vancouver Success

Has anyone ever gained your complete trust within the first minute of meeting? Isn't that a wonderful thing? That's how I feel about Parkside (1906 Haro, just off of Denman). I immediately walk in and I feel like I can count on it, and I've only been there twice. No, they're not going to serve me anything yucky...yes, of course they'll serve everything with care...and obviously, asking questions about the menu will get me informed, gracious, answers. Now, that doesn't mean that they don't take chances. Chef Andrey Durbach changes the menu regularly, and in fact, their online menu is updated daily! So great was my trust after one visit, that this restaurant immediately came to mind as the one to pick for Dine Out Vancouver - the event where restaurants seem to set themselves up for big falls, between servers dealing with the large crowds of "unsophisticated" diners who are there for a bargain, exasperated hosts dealing with clogged phone lines, "campers" (those who eat slowly and stay a long time after eating) and no shows, you've likely got an exhausted staff on the brink of snapping at the next person who tries to order, say, a hot water with lemon.

But I look at Parkside, and I think to myself, "they've got class, they can do this" and I book myself a table as soon as they start taking them (beginning of January for any of you Dine Out newbies who want to snag a table at one of the more popular restaurants next time). Well, in short, they did it marvelously.

We arrived for our 8 pm (here's a tip: book later seatings for Dine Out to dampen the pressure to get in and out as quickly as possible) and the staff were relaxed and cheerful. The room was inviting despite being full of the beautiful people. We were seated promptly, and we started with a couple of their intriguing cocktails, a Dark and Stormy (dark rum, West Indian ginger beer, citrus juice) for Guiness Cheddar Boy and I think a Frozen Pineapple Cosmopolitan (vodka, pineapple sorbet,cranberry & fresh orange juice, shaken) for me.

My terrine appetizer was wonderful, with big, satisfying chunks of chicken, rabbit, ham, and foie gras, served with the cutest baby toasts, cornichons, pea puree, and a little fennel slaw. My dining companion had the salad, and I was tempted by the mushroom soup with truffle oil, but I think mine was the winner.


Terrine of Chicken, Rabbit, Smoked Ham and Foie Gras, Toasted Country Bread, Traditional Garnishes


Salad of Belgian Endive, Apples, Croutons, Toasted Pecans and Blue Cheese Dressing

We both chose the beef short rib, which was swimming in a delicious pool of sauce. Again, deeply satisfying, and perfect fare for a chilly evening, especially with a bottle of Chianti (Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva 2000, Italy) alongside.


Braised Beef Short Rib, Spring Onion Mashed Potato, Savoy Cabbage, Mustard Jus

For dessert, Guinness Cheddar Boy, true to his cheese fiend nature, opted for the dolce latte gorgonzola, which was a really lovely softly flavoured cheese. I went for the decadent sticky toffee pudding, and was so full, that I could only finish half of it. A small tragedy in my mind. These are the times when a spare stomach would come in handy.


Dolce Latte Gorgonzola, Toasted Pecans, Poached Apple and Greek Honey


Sticky Toffee Pudding, Spiced Rum and Ginger Ice Cream

What particularly impressed me was that they managed to provide a meal normally priced at $49 for only $25, without making any single part of it feel like a discounted meal. Additionally, they offered it at the $25 level, rather than $35, as many Dine Out Vancouver participating restaurants did. The dishes were just as interesting as they normally are, the portions generous, and the service filled with their special touches, like decanting our wonderful Chianti and serving a little complimentary biscotti alongside my after-dinner coffee. It was a stellar meal from start to finish.